The Cedar Tree a worthy addition to Braun Court
By CONSTANCE CRUMP
NEWS RESTAURANT REVIEWER
The Cedar Tree’s dining rooms are scented with cardamom and other exotic aromas. Dusty white seed pods of cardamom lend their essence to tiny cups of thick Middle Eastern coffee - but don’t stir it up. One Crumpet who stirred was dismayed at the deep sludge of coffee grounds he turned up. Sipping off the top is more efficacious.
Braun Court’s selection of cuisines expanded in October with the opening of the Middle Eastern restaurant. It’s a worthy addition to the Chinese, Japanese and Mexican spots that preceded its debut.
Spirited string and flute music (at an unobtrusive volume) made one Crumpet long to sow wild oats. “This would be perfect for an orgy,” said she.
There are plentiful visual as well as aural clues to The Cedar Tree’s roots. The casbah has influenced decor more on the second floor than on the first level. Tapestries, rich brocade and brasswork combine with comfortable booths upstairs for the charm of the unfamiliar, more so than tables and chairs downstairs, but downstairs windows are cloaked in diaphanous curtains and the service staff wears caftans or fezzes, depending on gender.
The menu blends several Middle Eastern cuisines. Co-owner Omar Hamdan is a Jordanian who’s lived in Lebanon. He’s incorporated Moroccan dishes into the food as well, especially at dinner. (Hamdan’s partner is his sister Salma.)
Appetizers are highlights of Middle Eastern cooking and the Cedar Tree’s support the reputation. Hommus, chick pea spread served with pita triangles, and falafel, more chickpeas, deep-fried, are simple but good.
Sesame-scented smoked eggplant (babaghanouge) is excellent with beautifully fruity olive oil, tomatoes and hot peppers. The strong flavors ought to compete -garlic, smoked eggplant, sesame, lemon — but instead blend into a subtle whole. Loubieh, marinated green beans in tomato sauce, is low key but a good alternate to green salad.
The kitchen excels in the soup department. The house special, split lentil soup, is a palate-rewarding vegetable melange with citrus overtones. A daily special chicken soup was thick and superb, so chockful of well-balanced vegetables and spices that its poultry origins were barely discernable.
When I first tasted the gyros, I asked myself, “Is it real or is it Memorex?” My question was on the right track - gyros is the only prepared food used at The Cedar Tree and while adequate, it isn’t as good as the house-made dishes. The yogurt/ garlic sauce that accompanies it is good. French fries, the other accompaniment, make it a mixed metaphor.
Cedar Tree’s falafel is excellent, among the best I’ve tried. As an appetizer or main course for lunch with pita bread and tomato, it’s a best bet. Shish kafta, skewered spicy ground lamb with rice pilaf, is nicely grilled.
Dinner brings out the unusual in The Cedar Tree’s selection. Daily specials include dishes like layered mashed potatoes and lamb kibbeh, a Middle Eastern Shepard’s pie crossed with a potato knish - not bad.
Two chicken dishes alone are worth a trip to the restaurant. Musakhhan is tender chicken baked with leeks, sumac and that delicious olive oil, with pita bread. Mougrabieh, tender baked chicken with chick peas and couscous, features couscous in bigger and better form than I’ve seen before. Both come in enormous servings. Yet to be tried, but I can’t wait: marinated shrimp, roast leg of lamb and eggplants or artichokes stuffed with meat and pine nuts.
The pastry tray can be a crap shoot. Baklava-with-a-twist is made from both walnuts and pistachios. It’s worth the calories. However, some of the other pastries are fresh, some not so fresh. Shop carefully.
One Cedar Tree diner found prices a little high. She said she’s been spoiled by prices at The Sheik in Detroit. It may cost less at The Sheik, but she had to spend time and gas money to get there — and $15 a person isn’t out of line for a dinner prepared from scratch with all fresh ingredients. I don’t agree with her assessment that it’s expensive.
Service is so discreet, it can be unnoticeable - except that everything appears when you want it, not before - or long after.
CRUMPETS
The Cedar Tree
317 Braun Court
663-3116
FOOD 8 out of 10
SERVICE 9 out of 10
ATMOSPHERE 9 out of 10
HOURS: Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. until 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 11 p.m., Sunday, 11 a.m. until 10 p.m.
LIQUOR: None.
PLASTIC: VISA, MC, AMEX.
PRICES: Moderate. Lunch for two, $18; dinner for three, $44 with tax and tip.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Presently through back of restaurant; scheduled for major improvement in 1987. Call for assistance with access.
NEWS PHOTO • COUEEN FITZGEAID
Omar Hamdan at the Cedar Tree.
