Swordfish from the Icehouse

By CATHERINE ARCURE

NEWS FOOD COLUMNIST

At Robby’s at the Icehouse, swordfish dishes are very popular. Among the most requested is Swordfish Au Poivre.

The idea for this, owner Robby Babcock explains, came in looking for a seafood alternative to New York sirloin dishes. What he and his ) chef, Dan Tesin, devised is a swordfish dish calling for a variety of peppercorns — pink, white, green and black. These give the swordfish a more aromatic flavor besides the natural heat sensation of white or black pepper, Robby notes.

It is served on a shimmering pool of red bell pepper sauce, Dan explains. Not only is it very colorful, he says, but it provides a rich, semi-sweet contrast to the charred ) pepper flavor and meatiness of the swordfish.

ROBBY’S AT THE ICEHOUSE SWORDFISH AU POIVRE

Dan and Robby suggest serving this with a medley of julienne zucchini, turnips and carrots lightly and quickly sauteed in olive oil -- a tasty and colorful vegetable accompaniment.

4 (8-10 ounce, 1-inch thick) swordfish steaks Olive oil

1 tablespoon each crushed black. pink, white and green peppercorns

4 large red bell peppers, seeded and pureed in food processor

1/2 medium onion, pureed in food processor

8 ounces dry white wine 8 ounces water

1 tablespoon white vinegar

2 tablespoons extra fine sugar

1 teaspoon thyme leaf

3 bay leaves

1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

1 -- To make the red bell pepper sauce, combine all ingredients in a pan; bring to a boil. Let mixture cook down to about half for about 30 minutes. If sauce thickens too much, add a little water to reach desired consistency. Reduce heat to medium. Add one-half teaspoon baking soda to reduce acidity of bell peppers. Let cook for another 10 minutes. Sauce may need one-half teaspoon Kosher salt for proper flavor. Dan recommends using Kosher salt in most food preparation. It enhances and brings out the natural flavor of the food vs. the saltiness of iodized salt, he says. Remove sauce from stove; keep warm. This may be made a day ahead.

2 -- Grill swordfish steaks on charbroiler, barbecue grill or broiler. Steak is cooked on the grill not on a pan. Lightly brush swordfish steaks with oil; coat both sides with the mixture of crushed peppercorns. Cook steaks on a hot grill about 4 minutes per side. Serves 4.

Robby's at the icehouse is located at 102 S. First Street.

NEWS PHOTO • RODNEY CURTIS

Dan Tesin with swordfish au poivre at Robby's at the Icehouse.